Richard Chai's bold Fall collection

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STORY: Designer Richard Chai used bold stripes in gray and black wool to open his Fall 2012 runway collection on Thursday (February 9) in New York.

"This particular season, it was really about stripping things away and having it be very accessible - but not in a way that's boring," Chai said.

"It's in a very aspirational way. I mean it still has to be believable. I didn't want to just create looks because it's a show and not have it be something that's not believable, or something that I really want to see someone wearing."

Tailored women's coats - some in wool neutrals and one in a shiny taupe material - got a touch of practical whimsy: a slim belt with deep pockets shaped like flat saddlebags.

In a season where navy is expected to be a top trend, Chai chose a shade so dark that it appeared almost black. He also favored a deep sapphire shade, contrasting it with burgundy in some jewel-tone fabrics.

Chai, an American designer with a Korean heritage, is among the designers whose shows are considered a "must-see" by fashion industry experts. And that's not just because he shows his collection on the opening day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. His aesthetic - the colors and the cut - often signal a fresh vision of the season's trends.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York will continue through Thursday (February 16). About 90 designers are scheduled to present their Fall 2012 collections in Lincoln Center and other venues around New York City.