Nanga Parbat The Winter Ascent

The task pending since 1988 has been completed by Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Ali Sadpara at around 15:40hrs local time, today. The first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat was confirmed by Base Camp, who had been in radio contact with climbers. The ‘fantastic' fourth member of the team, Tamara Lunger, had to stop a little short of summit, unfortunately. Precise details of her exit are not known, yet.

The climbers are already coming down. They will spend the night in C4 and retreat to BC, tomorrow. Weather remains favorable.

Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro left Base Camp on February 22nd. After battling harsh wind and difficult climbing conditions, they reach C2 (6100m) at around 1700hrs. The marathon 2000 meters ascent consumed around 11 hrs.

The hurricane winds continued throughout the night and following day. They spent the time hydrating, resting and waiting for improvement in conditions. The windstorm finally receded at around 2AM on Feb 24th. The climbers were ready to grab the opportunity to resume the ascent. On 24th, they reached C3 (6700m).

On 25th, the four climbers set up C4 (7100m) at the edge of Bazhin Basin. The final summit push started at around 06AM, this morning.

Weather windows on Nanga Parbat in winter are never long enough. To utilize the current window, the team climbed lower portion of the mountain in bad weather. They were already in C2 when actual good conditions arrived. They utilized next three days to reach the top.

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