How to Make a Concrete Dining Table

DIY Concrete Dining Table how to video tutorial. This is an excellent DIY concrete project for beginners and the more experienced alike! This clean, modern, minimalist design approach will look great in your dining room. This project doesnt take that long to make and is attainable by anyone if you follow this step-by-step tutorial. Best of luck on yours! This particular 1 1/2″ concrete top weighs about 370 pounds total.\r
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For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:\r
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Download Plans: \r
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*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!\r
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*Tools Needed\r
Miter Saw​ -\r
Table Saw - \r
OR \r
Circular Saw - \r
Drill - \r
Imp Driver - \r
Orbital Sander - \r
Concrete Trowel - \r
Respirator mask - \r
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*Supplies Needed\r
Quikrete Countertop Mix or Quikrete 5000 (less expensive option)\r
Cheng Concrete Sealer - \r
100% Silicone - \r
4 – L Brackets/Joists - \r
Gorilla Wood Glue - \r
Minwax Polyurethane - \r
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Approximate Total Cost: $195\r
The Concrete Dining Table can be made for under $195 dollars in materials cost. This is the cost for the concrete, wood, wood finish, concrete sealer, and other basic supplies. This estimate considers youre using Quikrete 5000 as a more affordable option. I bought my chairs at World Market, and you can find similar chairs on their website by clicking here - \r
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Assemble Melamine Form\r
You should set that large, bottom piece of the melamine form on a flat, level work surface. With melamine forms, youll want to be sure to keep it very clean and make sure there are no imperfections or chipping in any of the boards. Whatever faces the inside of the form will translate onto the concrete top after its poured. \r
Well assemble the sides with 1 ½ wood screws. Be sure to pre drill all holes before adding the screws and make sure everything is square, level, and flush when youre screwing it together. Dont add wood glue to the sides of the melamine form, because well need to easily deconstruct it later.\r
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Pour Concrete into Form\r
After mixing up the tubs concrete and getting it to a consistency that is peanut-butter-like, then well add it to the form. Wear gloves for this process, spread the concrete evenly in the form and fill it about ⅔ full. Once youve reached ⅔ and have spread all of the concrete out evenly, well add the piece of rebar reinforcement to the form. Place it into place and keep adding more concrete to fill it to the top of the form.\r
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Screed, Trowel, and Let Cure\r
Once youve filled the form with your concrete mixture, well want to level and smooth it all out. Using a scrap 2×4 piece of wood will work fine for the level and screeding of the concrete. Scrape the board from one side of the form to the other in a back-and-forth motion, scraping excess concrete out of the form and working it into low spots. Then we can vibrate the concrete either with a mallet, reciprocating saw (without the blade in), or orbital sander. Spend some time vibrating the concrete. Then trowel it all with a clean trowel and cover the whole concrete top with a plastic cover to help it cure evenly. Let the concrete cure and dry for the manufurers recommended time. Once it has hardened slightly, you can come through and do a hard trowel of the bottom. Refer to the video for more information about this technique. \r
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Build the Base Legs\r
Once youve poured your concrete and it is taking the necessary time it needs to cure, then well move onto building the wood base. The wood base is a modern, simple design and should not take that long to build. Refer to the cut list in the plans for help in deciphering which base pieces go where. Your base basically consists of two 4×4 constructed boxes on each end and three 4×4 support stretchers running between the top of the boxes. When putting the joints together with the torx screws, be sure to pre drill to avoid any splitting of the wood. Also, generously add wood glue to the joint to ensure security and strength.more at \r
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