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Downpatrick Head Sea Stack Climb
Description
Living 80m off Downpatrick Head on the north coast of Co Mayo in the Republic of Ireland is the iconic Dún Briste Sea Stack. Landed on by helicopter in the 80's and climbed once before in 1990. In this film Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska make the 2nd ascent of Dún Briste sea stack a shade over 25 years after the 1st ascent.
This stack took 4 visits and 3 attempts to stand on top by a new route. We had off course intended to follow the original 1990 route by Mick Fowler but got lured easier looking rock. :-)
Chaos Theory 42m XS
There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.
1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.
2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above.
Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16
This stack took 4 visits and 3 attempts to stand on top by a new route. We had off course intended to follow the original 1990 route by Mick Fowler but got lured easier looking rock. :-)
Chaos Theory 42m XS
There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.
1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.
2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above.
Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16
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